Most embroidery enthusiasts at some point of time in their path do come across this field of embroidery called blackwork. They pause a little to practise this form and either get completely hooked on to it or move on to something else…

So what exactly is blackwork? Blackwork Embroidery is an ancient and simple form of embroidery, stitched in black thread on white or off-white fabric. It is often called simply “blackwork”. The basic stitch is called Holbein or the double running stitch. This stitch is reversible and looks the same on the back and the front.

A counted-thread form of embroidery that is stitched on even-weave fabric is the easier way to denote a blackwork. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. Here comes the difference between blackwork and scarletwork. Blackwork is compulsory used with black thread, while scarletwork embroidery is sewn with red thread.

Historically, there are three common styles of blackwork:
a) In the earliest blackwork, counted stitches are worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern. Most modern blackwork is in this style, especially the commercially-produced patterns that are marketed for hobby stitchers.

b) Later blackwork features large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems. These are outlined with stem stitch, and the outlined patterns are filled with geometric counted designs.

c) In the third style of blackwork, the outlined patterns are “shaded” with random stitches called seed stitches. This style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.

Blackwork has been historically been used as designs on shirts, chemises or smocks during the time of Henry VII. Blackwork in silk on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves, ruffs, and caps) and for household items such as cushion covers throughout the reign of Elizabeth I, but it lost its popularity by the 17th century.

If you want to know exactly how to do a blackwork, you could take these tutorials at Blackwork Archives.

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