So lets begin with : What is a motif?  A motif is basically a design or figure that consists of recurring shapes or colors, as in architecture or decoration.   It could also mean a theme that is repeated or elaborated in a piece of music.   An embroidery motif is a pattern in cloth which consists of decorative shapes in various splashes of colors which give it a vibrant look.

The history of motifs traces way back to the ninth century when such a colorful fashion was in vogue in various parts of Europe.  This evinced interest and the art spread across in various forms across the world.   Since this is an embroidery art, the essence of each region was visible in the patterns and one could distinguish the culture or the state only by seeing the embroidery motif.

I came across an interesting book – Palestinian Embroidery Motifs: A Treasury of Stitches 1850 – 1950.   This is a vast embroidery treasure trove and recommended reading for every hand embroidery enthusiast!   Margarita Skinner focuses on the motifs used in embroidery which include the Tall Palm motif (also known as Ears of Wheat) of the Ramallah area, Scissors and Roses from Gaza, the Key of the Heart from Bethlehem and the Cypress Tree motifs found all over Palestine.   She says : “The embroidered dresses of the Palestinian women are very much like Persian carpets. They are not only unusually beautiful. They also tell stories.” In the Negev, unmarried Bedouin girls and widows wear dresses with blue embroidery. Once a widow remarries, red or pink embroidery is added.  The book documents more than 250 motifs, giving their names in English and Arabic and identifying the areas of Palestine from which they come.   Falak Shawwa‘s stunning photographs capture the artistry and vibrant colours of the motifs, and the splendour of festive dresses.   Each area of Palestine had characteristic embroidery.  Ramallah, together with Bethlehem and Beit Dajan, was well known for its lavish embroidery.  The embroidery on a festive dress could have 200,000 cross-stitches.  Bethlehem‘s skill in the art of couching made it the “Paris of Palestinian village fashion”.

If you try to trace back to the Palestinian history, it may not be exactly known when women in Palestine started to put thousands of stitches on dresses, coats, jackets, veils and cushions. Research on Palestine embroidery has found no examples earlier than the 19th century.   In Palestinian villages, the tending of chickens and selling of eggs was the domain of women, who used this source of income to buy thread and fabric. Girls in Palestine grew up watching their mothers embroidering, and learnt the skill from the age of about ten.  The primary stitches used in Palestinian embroidery are cross-stitch and couching. In couching a thick thread is positioned on top of the fabric, and a thinner thread is stitched over it to keep it in place. This gives a curving design, of which there are many examples in Palestinian Embroidery Motifs.

Wish you an enriched learning on our ancient arts!

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An embroidered pattern done on paper is known as paper embroidery.   Simple, isn’t it?  It can get a bit complicated though!

So, when did paper embroidery begin in the world?  Let us trace the evolution and history of this unique and amazing art.

Pin Pricking
The history of embroidery on paper can be traced back to the late 1700’s when pin pricking was used to adorn paper cards and enhance painted pictures. The pricking was done from either side which gave a different texture. Different size needles and tools were used to create various size holes. It is recorded that in the early 1800′s, Marie Antoinette used pin pricking on stationery she sent while imprisoned. Pin pricking surely had some influence on the Victorian fancy-work designs that used a pre-punched paper. This can certainly be considered embroidery on paper because the ladies stitched the pre-printed designs using the holes in the paper. Many of these designs were used as Christmas ornaments or wall hangings. The larger designs were of the mottos of the day, often spiritual in nature. As with many needlework techniques, this one began to die out in the early 1900’s.

String Art
String art was invented by Pierre Bezier in the late 1700′s. This refers to an arrangement of string that forms abstract geometric patterns or patterns that resemble an object.

Spirograph
Another contributing factor was the invention of the Spirograph by British engineer Denys Fisher. This new toy debuted at the 1965 International Toy Fair.  The Spirograph produces mathematical curves using disks made of plastic with holes strategically placed in the plastic circle.

And finally…Paper Embroidery

With an evolution of art springing from the above forms, in the 1980′s people started creating scrapbook pages and handmade cards. Creativity flourished and soon embroidery on paper began appearing. Dutch designer Erica Fortgens began writing books with patterns and instructions and officially the terminology – paper embroidery came into being.

Check out the sample of paper embroidery alongside this post.  As you can notice, the holes are prepunched by the embroiderer and the needle then passes through the holes along with the thread. This process is critical else the paper would get damaged.  A paper embroiderer needs to master this art of prepunching first before moving to the next step.

Wish you all the luck in all your projects!

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