What is Gold Embroidery? How did it come into existence? What is its significance?

To answer these questions, lets rewind back the time wheel to 2000 years ago – the era of Jesus Christ. Goldwork was originally developed in Asia in the 0th century and its use reached a remarkable level of skill in the Middle Ages, when a style called Opus Anglicanum was developed in England and used extensively in church vestments and hangings. After this period it was also used frequently in the clothing and furnishings of the royalty and nobility throughout Europe, and still later on military and other regalia.

How does one do Goldwork? – Passing is the basic thread used in goldwork; it consists of a thin strip of metal wound around a core of cotton or silk. This is generally yellow for gold thread or in older examples orange; for silver, white or gray. This is always attached by couching, either one or two threads at a time, and pulled through to the back to secure it. When multiple threads must be laid next to each other, a technique called bricking is used: the position of the couching stitches is offset between rows, producing an appearance similar to a brick wall. This same type of thread is used in making cloth of gold. Japan thread, sometimes called jap, is a cheaper replacement for passing, and is far more commonly used in modern goldwork. It appears nearly identical, but rather than a strip of metal, a strip of foil paper is wrapped around the core.

Gold Art embroidery Development over the ages :
15th century : A new technique known as Or Nué came into production in Europe. Strands of gold thread were couched down in pairs in coloured silks and were shaded by the closeness of the stitches. After the Opus Anglicanum period, metal thread embroidery was used exclusively to decorate clothing and furnishing for the nobility and the church. Portraits from the Period of Queen Elizabeth 1 rein, illustrate how lavishly metal thread was used to decorate clothing. Even Blackwork embroidery portrayed in the paintings of the 16th century, was mixed with metal threads and spangles.

18th Century : Gold and metal threads were used extensively and produced flamboyant garments worn in the English and continental courts. Later metal threads garnished military dress uniforms and civic regalia and still do today.

20th Century : Goldwork techniques were carried on through the teaching and commission of the Royal School of Needlework and the works of embroiderers such as Beryl Dean and Jane Lemon who use metal threads in an imaginative and exciting way, on vestments and alter frontals for the church.

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