Embroidery Designs Guide

(Photos taken on July 31, 2008 shows 2 parts of the giant handiwork of Panxiu Embroidery gifted as best wishes for the Olympics by the Tu ethnic group in Beijing, capital of China)

What is Panxiu embroidery? Panxiu embroidery is a traditional Chinese hand embroidery - specialised and perfected by the Tu ethnic minority. The Tu ethnic minority, known for their simplicity and industriousness, lives in the northwestern part of China - to the east of Qinghai Lake and south of Qilian Mountain Range and along the banks of the Huangshui and Datong rivers. It is concentrated mainly in the Huzhu Tu Autonomous County in Qinghai Province, and also in the counties of Minhe and Datong. Others are scattered in Ledu, Menyuan and the Tianzhu Tibetan Autonomous County in Gansu Province.

Embroidery is a technique generally favored by all ethnic minorities in China, usually used in the waistband, the headband, the apron and some rapid-wear parts such as the wristband, edge of the skirt, border of the front, the round shoulder, the swing-down, the bottom of trouser-leg etc. being both decorative and practical. Techniques of embroidery include cross-stitch work, applique, embroidering and so on; the methods of embroidering include pingxiu (flat embroidering), chouxiu, bianxiu(weaving embroidering), jiexiu(knotting embroidering), panxiu(embroidering with a disk), etc.; the patterns include natural scenes, auspicious patterns and geometric patterns and so on.

What is the speciality of Panxiu Embroidery? Panxiu embroidery is used as a decoration on Tu women’s attire. The skill has been passed down from mothers to daughters for 1600 years. Silk threads with seven different colors are used to make Panxiu embroidery. No canopy is used. With cloth in the left hand and a needle in the right hand, an embroiderer only uses one threaded needle to do both sides, front and back, of a single piece of cloth. Although Panxiu embroidery is complicated and time-consuming, it is durable and artistically pleasing. It is also dainty and delicate which portrays the cultural beauty of the Tu dynasty. The commonly embroidered patterns are traditional patterns of the Tu minority, such as cloud patterns, diamond patterns, and Buddhist figures. The 1,600-year-old Tu Panxiu embroidery has great artistic and cultural value. However, this art form is close to extinction because more masters are elderly and young women prefer less complicated ways of embroidering.

Why has it suddenly shot to light in the last few days? 30 year old Huang Lansuo’s efforts during the last fortnight has brought this beautiful embroidery artwork into the global limelight. She came to Beijing all the way from her home in Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Huzhu Tu Autonomous County of northwest China’s Qinghai Province, bringing her proud gift to the world, a 10-meter-long handiwork of Panxiu Embroidery of the Tu ethnic group. The delicate work, with lifelike characters of animals and plants on Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and dancing scene of China’s 56 ethnic groups, plus with the symbol of the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games emblem “Chinese Seal”, mascot “Fuwa” and the Olympic Rings, was embroidered by some 160 women led by Huang Lansuo of the Tu ethnic group to express their best wishes to the Beijing Olympic Games.

Stumpwork embroidery traces its roots down under in New Zealand in the 17th century. Stumpwork is a style of raised and padded embroidery which uses a charming bouquet of flowers, fruits, insects, animals - all woven intricately to give the entire design a natural look.

The highlight of this style of embroidery is the stuffed figures and attached pieces of embroidery. Nature provides as a backdrop to a couple in the foreground - all in the finest of details. Little dolls with shoes, ruffs, collars, skirts stand boldly in the embroidered piece which are generally used on mirrors and small bags.

Stumpwork Embroidery: A Collection Of Fruits, Flowers & Insects For Contemporary Raised Embroidery by Jane Nicholas gives readers a complete insight on the trends and methods adopted for this ancient technique. Of late, there has been a revival of this embroidery and one does see it in some of the embroidery stalls across the world. The book  comprehensively covers the details of the equipment required like fabric and threads, general instructions for an embroiderer and finally 10 different interesting projects on stumpwork embroidery. The projects which form a highlight of this book includes Pomegranate and Strawberries, Rose and Bee, Acorn Thistle and Bee, Christmas Rose and Dragonfly, Gooseberries to name a few.

United Arab Emiratie Zareena showcased the true Arab, Pashno cultural embroidery patterns in the recent Dubai fest. The hallmark of her collection are the lush embroideries on single one-piece gowns. Blending old, vintage Afghani references, Zareena uses the thread zari and the gotha (the metallic fabric used richly in Indian wear) as well as luxurious crepes and chiffons to accentuate the sparkle in her embroidery. Every piece is distinct and different from the previous piece and in this lies her excellence. The bejewelled embroideries are made to perfection and have fans raving for more of her collection. Her firm belief is that simplicity is the essence of beauty and all her collections derive their elegance from their clean cuts coupled with a rich look.

‘I await inspiration. I do not plan it,’ she explains. ‘It could be a simple piece of jewellery that might take my fancy and become an inspiration for an entire collection.’

Married with two daughters, Zareena has successfully launched and maintained three businesses with the support of her husband, Colonel Mohammed Murad. She looks towards India for inspiration due to its age old tradition and culture. She has started an enterprise in Delhi with a team of designers and embroidery craftsmen. Her endeavors include a well-known beauty salon and a wedding events management company. She juggles between family life and her career and maintains a healthy balance between the two. ‘Without harmony at home, a woman cannot achieve heights. My family is my strength,’ she points out.

EDG wishes her all the best in her bejewelled embroidered life!

We start a different series today… A series of famous embroiderers who have needled their way into the embroidery news of the world. They could be tutors on embroidery, writers of embroidery books, experts in embroidery digitizing software or plain and simple embroidery enthusiasts.

We start with Kathleen Bentley Tackett of Blaze Branch, Dorton who has developed an expertise in applique patterns. It is said that her applique finishes are so good, that the stitches seem to disappear like magic.  This is primarily due to the finesse skills garnered through her many years of practise.   As a child, her main motivation to take up sewing was her grandmother and in her own words: “I would stand at her sewing machine and watch her making pretty dresses for her daughters”. As a young woman, she worked towards getting a tailoring certificate and made the uniforms for the Virgie High School Band. She loved making complicated stuff. Four years ago she took up quilting with the help of her daughter’s quilting machine. They trade their talents with Kathleen doing the applique by hand and her daughter doing the quilting.

Kathleen has given a few remarkable appliques away to her loved ones : one to her granddaughter in California — “Basket of Roses”; one to her grandson — “Mexican Star”; and one to her grandddaughter in college — “Lavendar Tea.”

She is currently working on a “Through the Year with Sunbonnet Sue” quilt. It has 12 appliqued squares, one for each month. The patterns are made up of pieces of material in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. July’s square is patriotic; February’s is Valentine’s Day; September’s shows Sunbonnet Sue on her way to school … and so on.

With over 20 quilts finished and two more started, Kathleen is always flooded with new ideas and new patterns. Besides those mentioned, she has made: “Devil on the Run,” “Flower Garden” (hand quilted by Pike County Quilt Guild member Zetta Mullins), “Cabin in the Woods,” “Chain of Jewels,” “Garnet Glaze,” “Courthouse Steps,” “Maggie’s Flower Garden,” “Christmas,” “Mystery Quilt,” “Storm at Sea,” “China Blue,” “Grandmother’s Flower Garden,” “Robert’s Flower Garden,” “Folk Art Freedom,” “Cathedral Window” and “Autumn.”

Kathleen belongs to the Pike County Quilt Guild that meets at the Pike County Extension Office and has also won a prize in the guild’s Hillbilly Quilt Show, in the Miscellaneous category.

Lets wish her the very best in her embroidering career ahead!

I hail from the East of the World - India. I have been studying various hand embroidery designing techniques and I found it interesting to note how culture, history, background so strongly influences the very essence of these patterns.

The Western techniques are also influenced by the above parameters and techiques like cutwork, flipflop, corvette, mardi gras embroidery designs emerge out to the world!

In the Eastern, apart from India a treasure of traditional embroidery comes in from China.  China is the first country in the world that discovered the use of silk for hand silk embroidery.    Silkworms were domesticated as early as 5000 years ago.  The production of silk thread and fabrics gave rise to this beautiful art of embroidery. According to the classical Shangshu, the “regulations on costumes” of 4000 years ago stipulated among other things “dresses and skirts with designs and embroideries”.    In 1958 a piece of silk was found in a tomb of the state of Chu of the Warring Sates Period (475-221 B.C).  It is hand embroidered with a dragon-and-phoenix design.  More than 2000 years old, it is the earliest piece of Chinese embroidery ever unearthed.

In 2005, I wrote about Photo or Embroidery Design - Hunan Silk Embroidery. Today, silk embroidery is practised nearly all over China. The best commercial products, it is generally agreed, come from four provinces: Jiangsu (notably Suzhou), Hunan, Sichuan and Guangdong, each with its distinctive features.   Embroidered works have become highly complex and exquisite today. Take the double-face embroidered “Cat” you see next to this post, representative work of Suzhou embroidery. The artist splits the hair-thin coloured silk thread into filaments-half, quarter 1/12 or even 1/48 of its original thickness– and uses these in embroidering concealing in the process the thousands of ends and joints and making them disappear as if by magic. The finished work is a cute and mischievous-looking cat on both sides of the groundwork. The most difficult part of the job is the eyes of the cat. To give them lustre and life, silk filaments of more than 20 colours or shades have to be used.  Recently, on the basis of two-face embroidery have developed further innovations– the same design on both sides in different colours, and totally different patterns on the two faces of the same groundwork. It seems that possibilities hitherto unknown to the art are still to be explored.

What on earth are applique floral quilts? Well well, you have been missing out on some eye stopping embroidery designs if you haven’t come across these patterns till now.

A quilt is a type of bedding— a bed covering composed of a quilt top and a layer of fabric for backing. The two are secured by tying which is a technique of using thread, ribbon or yarn to pass through all 3 layers of the quilt at frequent intervals. These are strong bonds and hold on even when the quilt is being washed. Most quilts are decorative and find easy uses as wall hangings apart from the normal bedding. Over the years, attempts have been made to make this quilt look more and more exotic and flowers or animals have been frequently used to add a natural touch to the hand embroidery. Appliques florals are flowery designs sewed on a separate fabric which is then stitched on to the master quilt cloth.

If you would be interested to learn this art, we have for you a masterpiece book from Bonnie Lyn McCaffery called Fantasy Floral Quilts: Creating With Silk Flowers (That Patchwork Place). This book contains step by step instructions along with beautifully photographed quilt designs to help you on your way. The quilts here are made from fabric and silk flowers and embellished with glistening threads and beads. This is not a very easy art, but Bonnie with her easy-to-understand logical instructions makes applique floral quilting a breeze.

What exactly is bead embroidery? This is an ancient hand embroidery technique which originated in Germany in the 12th century. The pattern was first drawn onto the parchment and then attached to the fabric. The beads were strung onto one single thread, laid on the design in the desired manner and then couched into place with a thread and second needle. So there was a juxtaposition between the beads and the embroidery and this unique technque came to be known as bead embroidery.

In today’s scenario, one generally takes 5 - 6 beeds on the needle at a time. The needle goes into the fabric and these beads are then couched with a second needle and thread into place. The backstitch technique is used in order to run through several of the couched beads. A final thread is run through to ensure stability of the embroidery design.

Check out the dragonfly which caught my eye in one of the beaded embroidery resources - Giuliana’s Beaded Embroidery - This embroidery is done with linen lined with muslin. The dragonfly body is done in clear silver-lined bugle beads, and the wings are solid silver metal Delica beads. The opaque purple beads are size 11/0 Japanese glass beads. Aren’t they a beauty!

There is an informative book on beaded embroidery by Sherry Serafini and you could read it -  The Art of Bead Embroidery: Techniques, Designs & Inspirations

This is a special of specials by my friend Robbie M Fields. Hand embroidery could be made as simple as twiddling your thumbs! If you want to learn how to do blanket, back, chain, cross and feather stitches hand embroidery, you are in the right place. The history of Creative Success Strips started with a search for a more accurate method of making outline embroidery stitches around applique designs. This resulted in the manufacture of plastic strips with punched holes which would guide the extry/exit for the needle. The success strips covered by the United States Patent 6413091 prove to be a boon to the hand embroiderer struggling for accuracy in the embroidered pattern. The punched holes are placed in horizontal, vertical and parallel rows in and out of alignment, with certain holes having perpendicular lines extending to the outside edge of the strip. This indicates where a marking point is to be made. A disappearing ink pen to enable you to mark the points properly forms part of this kit. The 1920’s Dutch doll gives a clear picture of how the strips are to be used correctly to give the right outline. The Christmas stocking pattern is another cute example which displays the right use.

The entire kit contains 5 different success strips, a disappearing ink pen, 2 examples of hand embroidered appliques (Dutch doll and the Christmas stocking pattern) and an instruction and illustration booklet and is priced modestly at 13.75 dollars (including free shipping and handling by first class mail in the US).

Disappearing Ink Pen -

Example of hand embroidered Dutch Doll and Christmas Stocking Pattern

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Instruction and Illustration booklet

You could buy the whole kit right here and it would be delivered to your address.

Within US - 13.75 dollars

Outside US - 16.00 dollars

Most embroidery enthusiasts at some point of time in their path do come across this field of embroidery called blackwork. They pause a little to practise this form and either get completely hooked on to it or move on to something else…

So what exactly is blackwork? Blackwork Embroidery is an ancient and simple form of embroidery, stitched in black thread on white or off-white fabric. It is often called simply “blackwork”. The basic stitch is called Holbein or the double running stitch. This stitch is reversible and looks the same on the back and the front.

A counted-thread form of embroidery that is stitched on even-weave fabric is the easier way to denote a blackwork. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. Here comes the difference between blackwork and scarletwork. Blackwork is compulsory used with black thread, while scarletwork embroidery is sewn with red thread.

Historically, there are three common styles of blackwork:
a) In the earliest blackwork, counted stitches are worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern. Most modern blackwork is in this style, especially the commercially-produced patterns that are marketed for hobby stitchers.

b) Later blackwork features large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems. These are outlined with stem stitch, and the outlined patterns are filled with geometric counted designs.

c) In the third style of blackwork, the outlined patterns are “shaded” with random stitches called seed stitches. This style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.

Blackwork has been historically been used as designs on shirts, chemises or smocks during the time of Henry VII. Blackwork in silk on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves, ruffs, and caps) and for household items such as cushion covers throughout the reign of Elizabeth I, but it lost its popularity by the 17th century.

If you want to know exactly how to do a blackwork, you could take these tutorials at Blackwork Archives.

Cross stitch is an innovative form of embroidery which is basically a double stitch forming a X in sewing and embroidery. It could also be needlework made of X stitches.

One of the stunning cross stitch projects I came across was : Capture The Mystery Of Egypt project - Ancient Egyptian Cross Stitch. This features 25 glittering and historically accurate projects from the pyramids, the Great Sphinx to the hieroglyphics. It covers the scarabs to the river Nile. Few of the larger projects include King Tutankhamen, Sphinx and a goddess. It also has quite a large amount of smaller motifs ideal for bookmarks including Osiris, the eye of Horus, Isis, Anubis. At the end of the book you can find a few border designs. This book uses quite a lot of color mostly green, red, yellow, and blue. It provides colored charts containing symbols for easy identification. A definite must have for any cross stitcher!

The inner powers really reveal themselves in this creative guide. You could use these as attractive wall hangings or bag adornments.